Very cool Real flame job

Rear Brake hard lines: Part 2

Some more time on the rear brakes tonight. I got out the trusty angle iron and made a bracket to mount the other end of the soft-line from the T joint to the chassis. A couple of holes and a trim on one side, job done.  

After working out where is need to be located, I drill a 6.5mm hole through the cross member to bolt the bracket to the underside of the chassis.

Next out with the trust brake line and tool to make the flanges. Not the differnet connectors, and this time I remembered to put them on before doing the flanges. Below is the completed hard-line to go from the proportioning valve to the newly mounted soft-line.

All connected and tighted up.

While doing this I managed to cut my finger. Quite shed tip, insulation tape makes for a great plaster.

"Bother", It appears that the front left tire has sprung a leak .... not sure how. But its a real pain as I cant roll the RattyT out of the garage to do work on it. And its a real tight space to try and get the wheel off. Finally managed to get it off. So will drop that in to the tire shop tomorrow. I will also ask about new tires as Im wanting to go slightly narrower and slightly taller profile.

Rear Brake hard lines

So after a busy weekend with the family I got sometime Sunday evening to start on the rear brakes. I needed to plumb the hardlines.

First task was to make a mounting bracket for the brass T I got. So out with the trust angle iron and made a brake to hold the brass T.

Here is the Brass T mounted to the bracket.

I had waited to start on the rear brakes as I needed to get a Rear brake proportioning valve. This allows you to control the pressure to the rear brakes. Its a requirement for certification.

Figuring out where I wanted to place it. It had to be easily adjusted and close to the master cylinder. So this is where I finally decided it to go.

All mounted ready for the hard line from the master.

The home of the rear brake T, On its new mounting bracket.

Starting the process of making the hard lines. All flanges are doubles. The first step is to use this little do-hicky to squash the tube, it does it in such a that it bulges out.
 

As you ca see here the tube bulges and the next step is to fold the top back in the hole giving you a double skinned flange.

The finished flange.

Hard line complete ready to install.

Right next was to plumb from the rear disk brakes to the Brass T.

First one done, lots of bending and swearing.

Here is the rear view of the two lines complete.

Both connected up to the mounted T joint.

Lessons learned on this little exercise, double triple check the brake connectors. first they are on the tube before you do the final flange, and that they are on the correct way. Its a REAL pain having to cut the new created flange off and either put on the connector or turn it around so its on the right way.

If a jobs worth doing its worth doing twice right ... WRONG. Very frustrating and you just get angry with yourself.

Steering Part one

So after searching I found a double D 3/4 inch universal that would allow me to fit to the end of the steer column I have. Here it is in all its expensive glory.

The next task to fit it to the column.

Before i started the grinding filing I packed out the cabs front subframe to allow ne to mount and test clearances for the steering

After lots of careful measuring, filing and grinding the universal is on the column.

Mocked up steering, only problem is that it wont clear the rear most header. So I will have to bring the bottom universal forward. But that leads to more external machining work been done... and more $$. So going to noodle my options

FreeNas - 132days and counting

So a few months ago I setup a FreeNAS server out of an old Compaq PC, using a SD card as the primary OS hard drive. Since then its just sat there doing its thing. I checked out the status, its been running for 132 days with no complaints.  Admittedly it does very little work, its just a data-store. But I have been impressed so far.

Awesome... that all I can say (With appropriate Kiwi accent)

Apple TV and full 1080p - Broadcom Card install.

So after about 15days wait, the Broadcom Crystal HD Mini E-PCI card showed up.

So after re-reading these two great posts I started to the "upgrade" of my Apple TV.

http://www.blogythefox.co.uk/2010/01/09/apple-tv-broadcom-hd-card-hardware-and-software-installation/
http://forum.atvflash.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2469

So got the card out ...

 

next it was time to take apart the Apple TV, Carefully pulling back the rubber base at each corner and using a torx headed screw driver undo the 4 screws in each corner.

 

 

This then allows you to break apart the apple TV, be careful of the harddrive cable, detach it and you then have much eaiser access to swap out the card.

 

 

Next take off the wires that go to the wireless card, I then taped the metal ends and secured them out of the was (shown below)

 

Using a Torx screwdriver remove the screw holding the card in place and make sure you swap over the little plastic foot.

Place the plastic foot on the new Broadcom HD card, Fit the new card and re-screw in place.

 

Already to go back together.

Next, Since I forked out for a ATVFlash patching setup I didn't have to do any scripting as it has been added to the extras menu.

So after installing the software, and doing a full power cycle I was able to chose the Broadcom HD as the decoder in the video setting of XBMC.... I was then able to watch a full 1080p mkv 6.5Gb moive streamed of a 100mb lan.  Got to love XBMC :)